Progress doesn't taste good.


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And again

I should post a recipe. or fun pictures of my Amazing! Alaska! Life! but the muffler fell off of my car today and I simply feel like screaming into the void.

I fully acknowledge that I have a crappy car. I am SUPER EFFING PROUD of my janky car. My kids call it the Red Racecar and I love it because it is not even close to fast. I mean look at this girl. IMG_0891

This picture was from nearly 6 years ago. She has a lot (A. LOT) more body cancer. She has faithfully hauled me and my kids to work and to school since December 2014. We are lucky she has lasted this long.

I take her to the mechanic on Friday to see if her exhaust system is worth fixing. I kind of hate that we have to decide between junking an ok car and fixing an ok car. Should I invest in a nicer car? Our 1999 truck is the nicest car I have ever had (we bought it in 2010).

I will post a recipe soon I promise.


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A Life of Glamor

(I told this story last year at a story telling event about commercial fishing. I decided to publish it on my blog.)

I want to tell you a story about a fisherman with dry feet.

My fishing day usually begins with a phone call or text at some stupidly early hour that makes sense on the drag but is soul crushing in town. Have a perfunctory phone call with my beloved that is more shopping list than anything. There are checks at the cannery (yay!) so I can pay bills (boo) and by the way here is a giant list of what he needs me to deliver to the tender so he can stay out where the fish are biting.

I would rather be a deckhand than this glamorous fisherman’s wife/errand girl but the last time I landed a fish was 2012. I was pretty pregnant with my first kid then. I went out for the second king opener after my husband went through 4 deckhands. I was the last (best) resort. I don’t remember much from that trip except for when I got stuck in the hatch to our hold. The ladder slipped out from under me and I was dangling, wet, pregnant, and scared 6 feet off the bottom of our hold in light seas. My husband remembers I couldn’t land fish because I couldn’t bend over the rail. My bump was in the way.

My role now is to deal with everything that does not include pulling fish over the rails and pitching to a tender. This behind-the-scenes part of fishing is so, so critical but it involves paperwork and dry feet so it’s not romantic. At. All.

Most of my dealing with it involves two wonderful blonde tots that are 3 and 5. Every errand requires in/out of carseats for two. My kids are past that delightful “meatbag” stage where you strap them to your torso and go. So keep that in mind while I take you through my most recent gauntlet.

So, I hope that these calls come when I have a day off from my actual, full-time with benefits job so I don’t have to miss work to run our business. So I go with my two kids in tow and promises of some garbage treat that I swore I would never give my kids. First, to the grocery store. Neither kid is content to just sit in the cart anymore or if they are they want the same spot and end up fighting . So I find that Lakeside where they can have their own carts works best but Lakeside doesn’t always have everything I need for the boat so I’m off to Seamart. We get in the door and I threaten them in that low-voiced mom way I didn’t ever think I would be doing either. (such compliant kids I would have). We stop in the bulk section. I hope that I’ve beat the locusts who come off the seine boats and buy all of the good stuff. My schedule is not my own. I serve a 23 pound master who refuses to wear pants at inconvenient times.

So I do my best to get groceries, into a cart, without some little blonde child licking something. I see that oreos are on sale and I know that something as small as a cookie can improve morale. So I buy 2 bags. How much shelf-stable milk to get? I don’t really want to have to think at the store but I do the complicated math of calculating how much to buy/send. How much longer will this bite last? What is the storage situation like on the boat right now? Oh my gosh I’m spending $60 in shelf-stable milk. KILL ME.

I get to the front. Get the groceries boxed while my kids fight over the horse magnet at the checkout. I’m out the door almost to the car when I remember that the deck hand needs smokes. I pull out my list where I’ve written the brand and model of whatever the crew is smoking these days. I walk to the counter while my kids pound the gumball machine to show the person that I need a carton of Marlboro longboys or Camel Crispies or whatever. More than $100 and several idle threats later and we are in the car. The boxes don’t really fit well in the back of my rusty Toyota, especially on the pile of scooters and live vests in permanent residence.

But I was really good at tetris so it all fits and we head out to Murray Pacific where I can’t spend less than $300. I shove the kids back into the car and add the gear to the boxes of groceries.

Errands have to be timed so I can get home before the witching hour (if you don’t have kids this is the time between good behavior and pre-nap meltdown it’s about 11:30 in my world) By now it’s 11:15 and I am hoping my kids don’t crash too hard before I finish my chores. I park in front of SPC and find a kind soul to help me schlep boxes marked F/V (beeneatingMacandCheesefor3daysstraight) C/O (outgoingtender). The kids don’t run away at the cannery. It’s too loud, with too many weird smells, and I have absolutely told them about people losing fingers when they didn’t listen to their mom.

1 task done.

Then upstairs to the office to get the checks from one of the very nice women who work there. Sometimes there is candy. There has been candy often enough that my kids expect it. There are tantrums on the floor if there isn’t any. I dangle the McDonald’s carrot and the behavior gets good enough that I don’t have to carry two screaming kids out of the building.

Then the bank where I can smell the finish lines. I should just leave the kids in the car but I don’t because of mom guilt. We walk in, deposit checks, and get out with minimum fuss.

Then McDonalds then home and I’m spent and it’s 11:45 and it’s my “day off” and I still have to file some insurance paperwork and deal with sales tax and figure out how we are going to buy gear this year.

And Husband is calling me looking for a weather forecast. Me, with my dry feet and him with his wet feet, and my kids with my sticky French fry hands. Our business. We are fishing family.


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Halibut Chile Verde over Polenta

So. Life.

Anyway, I finally have halibut in my freezer. There was a several-year gap without halibut due to fishing season, time, small children, and other priorities. We used to have halibut all the time but since moving to Sitka, it’s a bit tough to get. But thanks to the good will of a friend, there is a halibut in my freezer again.

However, halibut is very much boneless skinless chicken breast. I do not dream of a simple poached chicken breast any more than I dream of gently poached halibut with a sissy sauce of herbs and white wine. There is a place for all of that, and that place is where people pay upwards of $26/lb for halibut.

I am also a Working Mom so I like dishes in 9×13 pans and leftovers.

So I ended up here, with a halibut chile verde over polenta. The chile verde takes some notes from the rajas recipe in The San Francisco Chronicle Cookbook Volume II (SF Chron) (Bauer and Irwin, 2001) and the pork chile verde in the Bon Appetit cookbook (Fairchild, 2006). The polenta is also from the SF Chron cookbook, but lightened because I at least pretend to support cardiac health in my house.

Halibut Chile Verde over Polenta

Halibut Chile Verde

6 poblano peppers (Or pasillas, or anaheim peppers. I live in southeast Alaska so I take what I can get)
1 tsp cumin seeds
1-2 T oil (I use olive oil but vegetable or whatever is fine)
1 large onion, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 jalapeno or serranos or whatever, seeded and minced. (I don’t do this because I have toddlers and they can’t handle spice yet. but you do you!)
couple of tablespoons of white wine (optional)
1 cup-ish chicken broth
1 pound halibut, cut into 1-inch chunks
1/3 cup sour cream
1/2 cup (or more if you like) grated queso fresco

roast poblanos over an open flame or broil them in the oven. Place them in a bag to steam, remove skin and seeds then slice into long strips. Toast cumin until it smells good then grind it up (feel free to substitute ground cumin here but then hang your head in shame). heat oil over med-high heat in a large dutch oven. Add onions and allow them to develop a fond on the bottom of the dutch oven. Add the garlic, toasted cumin, roasted peppers, and any minced jalapeno/serrano you have. Let that get nice and toasty. Deglaze with white wine and stir up any brown stuff on the bottom of the pan. Add chicken broth (deglaze with that if you are skipping wine) and stir. Lower heat to med-low. Add halibut and stir gently. Fish releases a lot of water but if your mixture looks too dry add a bit more broth until it looks like a nice, thick stew. remove from heat after all of the fish looks opaque. You don’t want to over cook here because you are going to bake this whole thing in the oven.

Polenta (modified from the SF Chron cookbook Volume 2):

1 cup water
1/2 cup milk (or heavy cream if you want to indulge)
1 tsp salt
1 cup polenta
1 tsp dried oregano
1/2 cup grated Queso Fresco (or Mozzarella if you life in a queso fresco-free place)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Combine water, milk, and salt in a sauce pan, place over high heat and bring almost to boil. In a separate bowl, combine polenta, oregano, and cheese and stir to combine. Stir into hot liquid, making sure there are no lumps and everything is incorporated. Pour into 9 x 13 pan. Bake for 10 minutes, stir then bake for 25 minutes longer. My oven runs hot so I usually let it go for about 15 minutes or more–the top should be golden and polenta should be springy.

Lower heat in oven to 325. Ladle the chile verde over the polenta, dot with sour cream and sprinkle cheese over the whole thing. Bake in the oven until everything is heated through and the cheese is melted and bubbling (20-35 minutes depending on your oven).

This whole thing can be made in advance and cooked the next day. It also reheats reasonably well for a fish recipe.

This has become one of my favorite things to do with halibut. It is way WAY easier than enchiladas and my kids mostly eat it.

No, there isn’t a picture because I do not have that kind of time and this photographs about as well as a cheese-covered dish in a 9×13 pyrex can. It is tasty, I promise.

References

Bauer, Michael and Fran Irwin. 2001. The San Francisco Chronicle Cookbook Volume II. Chronicle Books.

Fairchild, Barbara. 2006. The Bon Appetit cookbook. John Wiley & Sons.

Of course there are references. I am A Scientist.

 


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Becoming Political

IMG_3963.JPG

I’m sitting in Sea-Tac, jet lagged as heck, trying to organize my thoughts on my two days in DC. I don’t have many, my brain is yelling at the all-woman issue of Outside magazine loudest right now. I know this much: it’s time for me to stand up.

One of the first things I saw were people singing Amazing Grace while being led away in handcuffs from the lobby of the Senate Hart building. I don’t know what it was about. I couldn’t find anyone who did. Even though I had no idea what was going on, the willingness to be supremely uncomfortable for a cause moved me. It was then that I decided to be uncomfortable more often.

Right now that means advocating for fishing, climate science, and social justice. Oh, and donating to groups/causes that I can get behind. The big one is to the campaigns of elected officials that actually care about other people and believe in listening to scientists. (I met two. I’m glad they actually exist.)

I always joke that the hardest part of field work on a rainy day is leaving the truck. I guess I’m getting out of the truck.


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Rhubarb Jam (with strawberry too, I guess)

 

After four years of neglect I finally fertilized and separated my rhubarb plants. I have cared for these very minimally since we dug them up from someone’s abandoned lot. (We are classy.) With our mild spring I got a lot of gardening done despite having two toddling helpers. I now have rhubarb for days. Or Dayz because my rhubarb is that extreme.

No matter, I am able to deal with it because I have the perfect recipe for Rhubarb-Strawberry Jam. I clipped it out of the August 2009 issue of Saveur and have made it every year. You can find the recipe here  but I will list the ingredients for you:

  • 5 cups of Rhubarb cut into 1/2 to 3/4 inch pieces
  • 2 cups of hulled and quartered strawberries
  • 2 1/4 cups of sugar
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice

That’s it! I love this recipe because it is my Ideal Jam Recipe: tons of fruit, not much sugar, and no pectin/thickener to deal with. There is just enough sugar and strawberries to take the edge of the rhubarb but it’s still tart and bright. I learned the hard way that this recipe does not double, so learn from me and don’t end up with an enormous dutch oven of brown-black stringy goop that still won’t set up.

I measure the portions as follows–one heaping 2-cup Pyrex cup of strawberries and two of rhubarb.

Strawberry
Strawberry
Rhubarb
Rhubarb

It’s pretty scientific. I can attest it works though, the pure laziness and forgiveness of this jam is another reason I love it. I can make this jam while my kids scream at my feet for whatevertheheck and it turns out beautifully. Because this jam does not double, I prep several batches when I come home with my 1/2 flat of strawberries. Hilariously, I buy my strawberries from down south so it’s not really a pure Alaskan Jam. I do grow strawberries in my yard but it’s a race between my kids and the slugs to see who can eat more.

Anyway, make sure you use an even mix of the red and green rhubarb stalks. Before I paid attention to that, my jam was a tasty brown pile. It’s a fun complimentary colors fact! Red + Green = brown glop in a Kerr jar. Don’t worry about it too much but if you want your jam to be a pretty pink pile of goop, minimize the green.

So then you dump all the ingredients into a pot, bring it to a boil then reduce heat. You should stir it often and skim the foam off. I never used to skim but it makes the texture so much nicer in the final product. It takes about one to one and a half hours to cook down.

Early Jam
Early Jam
Late Jam
Late Jam

Then you can it! I use a random assortment of jars with the standard rings and seals. I give a lot of this jam away so I’m not to stressed about having fancy jars. (I would love to have a pinterest pantry full of Weck jars but that’s not my life.)

I follow whatever USDA guidelines exist for canning. I use a hot pack in sterile jars then process in a hot water bath for 10 minutes. I have a big canner with one of those racks that hold 7 jars.

 

IMG_2742

Done

And there is a pretty jar of jam. Also, those squat jars are super-pretty but suck to process in a canner. They are the width of a quart jar but are shorter than the sides of the racks so they slide all over the frickin’ planet. I have two left to give away then I’m never buying them again. I am a solid wide-mouth pint or half-pint person. Yes that is boring but they stack nicely. Those up in that picture do not stack and that frustrates me.

When I was a kid, I never thought I would have strong opinions on canning jars. I’m not going to die on a hill over them or anything but I would probably argue with a stranger at a bar if I’ve had a few. There you go. Make some jam.


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Waiting

Last Saturday my husband left for the Fairweather Grounds. A patch of ocean over eroded volcanic cones 50 miles off shore. It is a remote place in a remote place. There is no shelter from storms or anywhere to anchor at night. (You just turn your boat off and drift. Just thinking about this is unsettling.) I am single parenting our two toddlers and working at my regular job. And our satellite phone doesn’t work when he is out there.

This is a stupid sim card boundary thing but still. Typically, he calls me at night for about 2 minutes when he is out fishing. It is a small, bright light in a day full of kids who throw food and refuse to put on their socks. With him out there, on Fairweather, I don’t even have that to look forward to.

When he is out, I am rarely more than 6 inches from my phone. I sometimes delay taking  a shower because I’m afraid of missing his call. I spend the entire evening willing my phone to ring or to get a new email. Messages are short; usually number of fish, basic weather, and I love you. My whole marriage distilled into one sentence.

Yesterday, the Coast Guard had to rescue two fishermen from a boat that lost steering. In 12-25 foot seas and 35 knot gale. Thankfully, husband was anchored up in Lituya Bay–the closest, safest bay to the Fairweather grounds. As an Earth Science nerd, I can’t help but think about the landslide in the 60’s that caused a tsunami that washed a bathtub ring of trees out from the bay.

Oh, it’s called “Fairweather” because you can only fish it in fair weather. Or maybe it’s named after Mount Fairweather, a sloping behemoth in the Saint Elias Range that you see from the Fairweather grounds. Mount Fairweather was named by Cook because it was a nice day when he saw it. I mean, this total lack of creativity is probably why Alaska has about 759 “Salmon Rivers.”

But now it’s almost 10 at night. I haven’t heard from him so I will assume that he is fishing, making up for a lost day and a half at anchor. Maybe there will be a message in the morning.


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Clean it: Sheepskin

I don’t think I really became a parent until my toddler vomited all over me. We were on the way to the bathroom after he started puking in his bed when he just let it go down my back. [Insert baptism joke]. I am a Real Parent now.

Our biggest mistake is having our firstborn sleep on a sheepskin from the day he came home from the hospital. It was/is a great insulating layer for a December baby but it is wool attached to leather. He has now imprinted on this ratty thing that is not easy to clean. This poor sheep has been put through the worst a newborn/infant/toddler can do.

crab butt

A boy and his sheep

I am tired of cleaning it then comforting a sick child while his lovey drip-drys for two days. We have two sheep but one is the obvious preference. They are named “sheep” and “other sheep.” Guess which one he prefers.

Real wool is a pain in the arse to clean when it is processed into yarn and made into garments. COLD water. NO wringing. DRY flat. There are Rules. If you break these Rules you can dress your dachshund in your once-beloved sweater. I don’t think leather is allowed to be around water. I don’t really have any skin garments and I mostly wear rubber boots so I haven’t internalized those rules yet.

But. Having to clean vomit off of your kids Comfort Item makes you pretty innovative. So I have learned how to most easily clean a sheepskin. Note: I have not tested this on larger items or ones that are used responsibly as decorative throws. My only experience is cleaning bodily fluids off and getting the thing back into a toddlers sticky hands.

How to good-enough clean a sheepskin

Extract it from your crying toddler’s grasp. Pass toddler off to Other Parent.

Throw the thing in the bathtub and run cold water over it, thoroughly soaking the hide. Squirt about a quarter size amount of gentle soap on your hands. I use the same crunchy soap I use on my two perfect children. Lather in your hands and work deeply into the pile of the sheepskin. Slush you hands around in the cold, soapy pelt. Use your fingers and a wide tooth comb to work the soap into the matted hide and loosen all the lint and dried popsicle stickiness. Turn the water back on–using the shower head–and wash the hide until no more soap comes off. It is now clean enough.

Roll the hide up and squeeze out as much water as you can. Do it again. And again. You can place the hide on a thick towel and roll the towel up, pressing out even more water.

I used to hang this sopping mess up on a rack in our mechanical room (the warmest room in our house thanks to exposed radiant heat pipe). That method works. I am here to tell you that you can dry this thing in a dryer. Yes. Put that real wool thing in the dryer. Just place it in one of those mesh lingerie bags and add another item like a towel. Dry on low-medium heat for about an hour. Remove it when still slightly damp. Leaving it in too long makes it crispy and brittle.

Return it to a happy toddler

I haven’t tried my washing machine yet. My (horrible*, new) washing machine has a Hand Wash cycle that I will try because the tub method sort of sucks. I am pretty sure my kid will barf on this again at some point in the future.

Or you could just buy your kid toys that are machine or dishwasher safe. That would be the real take away message here.

*I really hate my washing machine.


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a pot of beans

Beans are not glamorous. Especially a circa 2009 25# bag of pinto beans from Costco. They were cheap and they never really go bad. Beans are a pretty good apocalypse food. (When researching methods for cooking I stumbled on some survivalist forums. Wow. Let’s all discuss the best way to live underground after the world ends.) While beans never really spoil, they get old and harder to cook. My Costco beans are very old and hard to cook. 10 hours in a crock pot will not soften them. Crunchy beans are gross. Crunchy beans when you aren’t crazy about eating beans in the first place is damn depressing.

Recipes that say beans cook in an hour or three are lying. It’s the same as when a recipe says you can caramelize onions in 10 minutes. There is science that explains why both of those are terrible lies, I have read about it. It involves proteins, sugars, and acidity.

I could have thrown them out. I am, as you might guess from this post about beans, Very Cheap. I can’t throw them out. I figured out how to cook them. Actually, I figured out how to soak them so they could cook before the actual apocalypse. Baking Soda. add about 2 tablespoons of baking soda to the soaking liquid the night before does some chemistry to the beans so they will actually soften.

Figuring out a recipe was much easier. As a kid, we used to eat at Chevy’s, a Cal-Tex Mex chain in the Bay Area. I liked that they had some machine that made tortillas right there in front of you and the pinto beans. They were soupy, salty, soft beans served in a food service white cup. I know they aren’t authentic but they were amazing. That flavor memory is my guide. I found the closest approximation by varying Home Sick Texan’s basic bean recipe.

This recipe isn’t even fancy enough for a picture.

Recipe:

1 pound picked over, rinsed pinto beans
2 T banking soda
3 (or more) cloves of garlic
1 yellow onion
1 (or two) poblano or pasilla pepper
a chunk (maybe 1/4 to 1/3 pound) salt pork–optional, I have made these beans without this and they tasted just fine
salt to taste

The night before you want to eat beans, place rinsed beans in a bowl, cover with water, stir in baking soda and let soak. (Since my beans are very old, I soaked them like this for about 8 hours then rinsed them and soaked them again in clean water another 12.) Rinse the beans, cover with about 7 or 8 cups of water. Whirl the garlic, onion, and peppers in a food processor–you want them chopped very finely. You can do this by hand too, just chop until you think hauling firewood up the stairs in the rain starts to sound like a good idea. Add all of this plus the salt pork to the pot and bring to a boil. Reduce to simmer and cook until the beans are soft. This may take 6 hours or more. It took 5 yesterday on my stove. Add salt at the end. Serve to your grateful family.

An aside: I am so stubborn that I will not buy any new beans at the store until I use all of these old pinto beans up. I am tired of pintos but I will not stuff more beans in my pantry until these are gone. I am down to my last 3 to 4 pounds. Then I can learn how to make other beans.


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Salmon Burgers. Better than they have any right to be.

Look, I know it’s been a year since I started this here blog. [Insert Excuses.]

Here is a recipe for something that allows me to eat salmon twice a week.

For those of you who don’t know me personally, which at this point in my blogging career is probably nobody, my husband is a commercial troller. Plus, we like to fish recreationally. So because half of the adults in our house catch fish, specifically Salmon, for a living + catching more fish for fun = a metric buttload of salmon in our chest freezer. “How is this a problem?” You may ask, because Wild Salmon is at least $8.99/lb where you live.

Because Salmon, no matter what VooDoo you do, always tastes like salmon. If you eat it twice a year, this isn’t a big deal. If you are trying to eat it twice a week, it gets old. Really. Fast. (If you are pregnant, married to a commercial troller who has to process 5-gallon buckets of salmon every week then you may dry heave while vacuum sealing that precious commodity.)

Hence my discovery of fresh/raw salmon burgers. They taste like salmon, kind of, but don’t feel like you are eating salmon. Plus the recipe is pretty versatile. Unlike several salmon cake/burger recipes this uses raw salmon that you then cook like you would a Red Meat Burger. It ends up with a better texture and isn’t a dry hockey puck of salmon+mayonnaise that can happen if you use cooked salmon. (Using up leftover salmon is a whole ‘nother discussion that I would like other people to chime in on.)

So here you go. This recipe doesn’t have exact measurements because it is based on chunks of salmon that get pulled out of the freezer. I adapted it from numerous versions available on The Interbob, most notably from Cooks Illustrated. If you have questions email me or leave a comment and I will try to help.

This recipe works without eggs because you turn those organized salmon proteins into a sticky mess that holds these things together. (Those are actual science words. I should know. I do science for a living.)

Basic Salmon Burgers

1 chunk of salmon pulled from your freezer, maybe 1 to 1.5 pounds (The fattier fish do the best with this so I suggest using King/Chinook or Sockeye.) Skinned then cut into 1/4-1/2 inch cubes.

1 shallot, cut into quarters

2-ish tablespoons mustard (I use Dijon but Western Family Yellow is ok)

1/4-ish cup mayonnaise

1/2 cup finely diced herbs (I use a mixture of chives and italian parsley because that’s what grows without any problem in my garden)

1/2 cup panko

Salt and Pepper to taste

Put the shallot into your food processor. Pulse it a couple of times until it is a coarse dice approximation. Add 1/4 of the cubed salmon. Process this into a pink-slime paste. mmm-mm Pink slime. Add mustard and mayonnaise and pulse until combined. (feel free to increase or decrease mustard and mayo for your tastes.)

Pink Slime

Whirrled up shallot and salmon

Add the rest of the salmon to the food processor and pulse a few times so that everything is mixed. Dump the salmon into a bowl and fold in herbs and panko. Add salt and pepper in whatever quantity you find appetizing.

Folding

Salmon, herbs, and Panko

Divide the mixture into evenly-sized patties. They tend to be 1/2 to 3/4 cup in size. Place on parchment-lined baking sheet, flatten, and place in the freezer for up to 20 minutes.

If U Care Parchment, because I really do.

Pretty patties already to go

Cook the burgers using your desired method. Grill is great, but also fried in butter in a cast iron pan is good.

Serve on bun of your choice with a fancy mayonnaise or whatever. I add capers, lemon, and parsley to mayonnaise. Stuff lettuce in there too so combat all the mayonnaise.

Oh, hey. Add a pickle too.

Look at that thing. Eat it.

I have doubled this recipe to have some burgers ready to go in the freezer for when I get home from work and don’t want to cook but am feeling too fancy for another Newman’s Own frozen pizza. It’s easy to overload a food processor, though, mine maxes out at about 2-ish pounds of salmon.


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Holy Balls I’m writing an entry

I regret than I am slow at this whole Blog Thing. I spend my working hours staring at a screen and I have a hard time doing it for fun. Yet here I am.

I’m mostly writing to tell al 4 of you out there that my header is finally done. Rather than blog, I have been painstakingly needlepointing the name of my Blog onto a cheap piece of canvas. Those are my priorities.

Anyway, ADMIRE MY HEADER BECAUSE I AM CRAFTY.